Jilly’s Cafe is intimate. That has always been part of its charm. Everything about the one-room, French-inspired bistro is designed to delight, from the bottles of wine lining the shelf at the entrance to the cafe-style shutters running along the top of the front window to the salmon-colored stucco walls and petite chandeliers. It’s a lovely mixture of warmth and whimsy.
That was Eda Nar’s main goal when she assumed ownership of the landmark Evanston cafe. Though she changed the color scheme and decor, she didn’t change a thing about the menu. Why would she? The excellent French food is exactly why she bought the place. She began planning to do just that before she left her table the very first time she and her husband dined at Jilly’s Cafe.
“It was the Crispy Goat Cheese appetizer,” she says, completely seriously. “That’s what made me want to buy the restaurant.”
It’s the attention to detail that really stands out. A basket of sliced French baguette greets you at the table with little ramekins of whipped butter and chicken liver pâté, so creamy and sweet when it first lands on the tongue before dissolving into a smooth, savory aftertaste. Between the salad course and the entrees, they serve a house made pinot noir sorbet to cleanse the palate with hints of grape and an elegantly dry resolution reminiscent of its wine namesake.
Though the entire menu is time-tested and every regular has their own favorite, here are three dishes that exemplify the exquisite flavors on display at Jilly’s Cafe.
Jilly’s Cafe is located at 2614 Green Bay Road in Evanston, 847-869-7636, jillyscafe.com.
Crispy Goat Cheese
This is the dish that convinced Nar to buy Jilly’s Cafe in the first place. Two lightly breaded and fried mouthfuls of goat cheese drizzled in stripes of balsamic vinegar disguise the creamy decadence of the cheese within a sweet and savory crunch. Stalks of roasted asparagus add the perfect flavor counterpoint, a little bit of smoky bitterness. Both of these are served on a bed of essentially deconstructed bruschetta with chopped tomato, onion, and basil splashed with balsamic vinegar, so bright and fresh. Exquisite. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROBIN SUBAR
Diane’s Beet Salad
Unlike any other beet salad we’ve ever experienced, and we had plenty during The Great Beet Salad Boom of 2016. The beets are shredded and mounded high, by far the most dominant thing on the plate, making for an eye-catching appearance, but within the flavor profile of the dish they’re surprisingly restrained. Mixed greens underneath add to the earthiness while red onion, toasted walnuts, and crumbles of blue cheese really fill out the dish. The real star, however, is strands of shaved fennel. They center the dish in bright, sharp flavor bolstered by the sweetness of a house made raspberry vinaigrette dressing. This salad is bold, tangy, and quite refreshing.
Bouillabaisse
This dish is a thing of beauty. Scallops, little shrimp, and market fish (salmon on the night we visited) are ringed by a circle of cracked open mussels, everything soaking in an outstanding white wine sauce with braised fennel, roasted Roma tomatoes, garlic, and saffron. The rich, garlicky smell made my mouth water in anticipation. Every seafood element was prepared perfectly and, as is often the case with well-executed French cuisine, was elevated by the exceptional sauce. Two large croutons, slices of grilled French bread, ride atop the dish, perfect for soaking up the sauce once we finished the fish.
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