I think it was the cappellacci that ultimately did it. I don’t often reverse long-held dining commandments midway through a meal, but during a recent visit to the revamped Enzo…
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Venetian Dreams
It was, I blush to admit, love at first sight. We’re talking a slow-motion kind of attraction here—the stuff Barry White songs are made for—where the world slows to a…
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Tuned In
If I had a dollar for every time a restaurant manager told me they wanted to recreate a city dining experience in the suburbs, I’d have enough money to open…
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Nonna’s Place
Matt Peota, the owner and executive chef of Passero in Arlington Heights, talks about his late grandmother Loretta the way most Italians talk about their nonnas—with something hovering between awe…
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Seasons Greetings
I can’t remember the last time I’ve paid any attention—let alone felt compelled to write about—a set of bar coasters, but the simple paper squares that were slipped under our…
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In The Line Of Fire
Every Saturday and Sunday morning, usually before 10:30 a.m., a parade of cars—both Bmers and Range Rovers; old Chevys and mud-caked pick-ups—will begin streaming into a nondescript strip mall on…
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Italian Lessons
Although more than 100 black-and-white photographs from– snapshots of Dean and Frank in their prime to rediscover some connection with their prime to the cast of The Untouchables posing heroically…
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Palm Reading
At a time when most restaurants come and go with the transience of college hoops stars—one year and they’re often done—you can’t help but marvel at the staying power of…
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Playing With Fire
Sometimes, the less you know about the inner workings of a hotel restaurant the better. Over the years, I’ve peppered hotel servers with questions about the provenance of some of…
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Prime Time
The difference between Chicago Prime Steakhouse in Schaumburg and just about every other beef-and-gin joint you’ve ever cut into over the years isn’t so much a particular cut of steak…
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